after i'd shoved a bunch down her throat, and let her go, my sister tried to get her to eat some by choice. it didn't work.

ed: 10 minutes later; success! thank you kate for the advice!

i spent the weekend up in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont, at a memorial service for my great uncle Johnny, who passed away last month. Johnny was a bit of a stranger to me, a tall looming man who i only met once or twice. nonetheless he was family, and jessamyn and i went up to Craftsbury Common to say goodbye to the last of his generation. there was family there whom i had never met, a town that reveres my family as close to royalty, and bunches of people whom i don't see often enough. honestly, i was worried about feeling out of place, a somewhat estranged relative. it was needless. showing up made one a central figure in the family, and we were welcomed with open arms.
i had the chance to see the place where my father and his close relatives spent summer, now a swanky bed & breakfast. and jessamyn and i went and explored a local library dedicated by a distant relative, which was full of old pictures of family i had never heard of, but was apparently distantly related to. it is also the only library i have ever seen with a ping-pong table in the middle of it. the ladies of the town there hung out at night and dished about politics. they had sweet, and fond, memories of my uncle Johnny.
Vermont is where i escape to when i feel the need to get out of the city. i am thrilled my sister has settled there, as it given me a green haven to withdraw to when i am tired of sirens and lights and people. she is the country mouse to my city mouse.
in honor of what, we hope, will be the last cold snap of this bitter Spring, we decided to do one last bit of winter cooking. scoutie and i headed out in the apocalyptic weather to buy provisions, then came home, turned the heat on, and fired up the oven. with recipes provided by Mark Bittman, we slathered a chicken with butter and herbs and roasted it. we also made a melee of mixed vegetables (baby bliss potatoes, baby carrots, a huge mess of shallots, and a whopping lot of garlic) and roasted those as well. some fresh crusty bread rounded it out, and we had a winter meal fit for a king.
we also wanted some sort of tasty desert, but were feeling a little lazy about making one. so, in a step that i almost never do, we bought some cake mix and some frosting, and made cupcakes. we amused ourselves for almost an hour with my embarrassingly large collection of cake decorating supplies by making some quite colorful and artistic cupcakes.we got some pretty cool chapbooks and printing projects from some small local presses, as well as a linotype of our names! i had a really nice time smelling the smells of printing, touching the furniture and type and composing sticks, and just...being there.
we saw a press just recently retired from use - it was the last handset press to be used for newspaper publication. truly the end of an era, i suppose.
and then: the sheep shearing. we missed the actual shearing, but were able to watch a sheep herding demonstration. amazing - sheep really are herd animals; they just stuck together like glue and ran like hell from the dogs. they all had cheery little bells on that tinkled when they moved. speaking of tinking, when they peed, the third grader inside of us forced out snickers and pointing. jesus - time to grow up, kathryn!
mostly, it was really cool to see working dogs...well, working. we could've stood there for hours watching them herd.
well, dolly, your wish was granted. the great smoky mountains did indeed touch our hearts. dollywood is much more than an amusement park. it is a celebration of the great smoky mountain traditions. we saw the foundry, and the grist mill, and the place where they make lye soap and the place where they hand craft wagons (each one with a hidden penny embedded somewhere, showing the year it was made). there was so much to look at, that we spent all of our time there just wandering and gawking, and pretty much skipped all the rides.
we attempted to go on the old wooden roller coaster, but it was closed. interestingly, though dollywood is host to at least three huge roller coasters, we never saw one. they are *that* well hidden. our one concession to the rides was a trip on the carousel. i saddled up a pony, and scoutie climbed up on a goat, and we whirled around to the tinkling calliope music. i am pretty sure that we were the only adults on the ride who didn't have kids with them.
at this point, scoutie and i couldn't take it any more. pigeon forge is a dizzying place, as is gatlinburg. the main roads are disorienting and sort of fuck with your head. i was familiar with the ploys of vegas -- no clocks and no clear exits and surrounded by a place that was larger than life -- it's whole *plan* is to keep you inside and confused and dumping money. the small towns in tennessee did the same thing. it was hard to tell where you were, let alone where you had been. the same motels would appear on the landscape block after block. the *exact* same motels. our little beloved microtel? there was another right down the street! so rather than brave the strip again, we got some spectacular take-out barbecue across the street and just crashed in our room, writing postcards, talking with Josh at the desk, and watching yet more Law & Order. Our mission was done. we had made it to dollywood. and damn, were we tired.
our pilgrimage was nearly complete, our mecca was at hand. the windy little road leading to dollywood betrayed no hint of the "one-of-a-kind entertainment park of superstar dolly parton"... dollywood is cleverly nestled into the mountains in a surprisingly unobtrusive way. which meant we couldn't see it laid out like a rare jewel before us - instead, they gouged us at the gate for $6 to park what seemed like miles away from the action. slightly daunted but still in high spirits, we boarded the trolly for the park (which we magically never had to wait around for... so dollywood loses points on the pay-parking and expensive tickets, but gained back some ground on the efficient trolly to/from the parking lot).
these helpful little signs were placed all over the park in order to avoid any confusion. later i learned that this year is not actually dollywood's 20th year - it's only the 19th year, they just wanted to start getting ready early. do-whuh?!?
perhaps the thing that makes dollywood the weirdest amusement park ever is how *wholesome* it is. hell, there is even a chapel where they hold sunday services.
is actually 
and they all advertise rates of around $20 per night. which is, of course, just another great pigeon forge scam. there might actually be cheap-o rooms, but they are probably all booked up until the next millennium. we wound up choosing the Microtel, and are we happy we did! our now-best-friend Josh, the cute dude at the front desk gave us a good deal and a smile.
when we crossed out of virginia into north carolina, we cheered. north carolina welcomed us with a sign and the best rest stop yet (although there was also this weird sign about people approaching us for money... apparently the panhandlers in NC are a mobile and enterprising bunch).
we got a lot of funny looks from the north carolinians, many of whom probably thought we were some real live massachussetts lesbians. but the t-shirts started a lively conversation with precious, a bronx-born yankees fan who served us delicious coffee, cookies and sandwiches. thanks precious! you're the best (because hey, it's not your fault you're a new yorker... ;)
terrifying because I40 is apparently a huge trucking route, and we were surrounded by massive tracter trailers on windy roads and steep inclines. unfortunately, we don't have any good pics to share because we forgot to clean off the windshield in durham and the windshield was a bug graveyard. proof - here's the pic kate tried to take of the 'welcome to tennessee' sign.
in the side of a mountain in the poconos region of PA, and resumed counting roadkill. as we skirted philly, it occurred to me how sad it is that big corporations make every town look the same (after passing a mall identical to one in revere - petsmart, target, old navy). which led to our deep thought for the day:
a ton of resort hotels, and oodles of miscellaneous rides and attractions (the rides were not operational yet - too soon in the season, i guess). we parked the car and hit a bar on the boardwalk for lunch, scarfing down the most delicious crab cakes i have ever eaten. then we wandered along the boardwalk, watching people and musing at the proliferation of old time photo places.
we were lucky enough to catch the sermon on the mount (two sand sculptures of jesus with relevant quotes from john, matthew and the psalms... luckily i was able to place each quote in context for kate - thank you professor wollman. really. thanks.).
we were warned many times not to touch or interact with the ponies. there was even some guy wearing a flourescent vest that said "pony patrol" - he looked old but tough, so we left the ponies alone. between ocean city and assateague island, maryland's a super great state. 




